• Mercury 40 Hp Outboard Manual
• Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Manual

• 1973 1990 Johnson Evinrude 2 to 40 HP Service Manual Outboard. For 48 50 55 60 65 70 75 85 88 90 100 110 115 120 135 140 150 175 185 200 225 & 235 HP.
• [973056] - Johnson 185 Hp Outboard Manual the johnson evinrude workshop manual downloads for the above listed models describes the service procedures for the complete vehicle follow the.

To begin with, a downloadable Johnson outboard repair manual, also termed factory service manual, refers to a digitally. 1992-1994 185 HP Johnson.

The Johnson-Evinrude Workshop manual downloads for the above listed models describes the service procedures for the complete vehicle. Follow the Maintenance Schedule recommendations to ensure that the outboard is in peak operating condition. Performing the scheduled maintenance is very important.

It compensates for the initial wear that occurs during the life of the outboard motor. All chapters in the Workshop Manual apply to the whole vehicle and illustrates procedures for removal/installation of components that are in detailed step-by-step fashion.

Most all Workshop manual chapters start with an assembly or system illustration, diagrams, exploded parts view, pictures, service information and troubleshooting for the section. The subsequent pages give detailed procedures. 1973 1990 Johnson Evinrude 2 to 40 HP Service Manual Outboard Johnson - Evinrude Service Manual Application: 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990 Outboard For 2, 2.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 6, 7.5, 8, 9.5, 9.9, 15, 18, 20, 25, 28, 30, 35, 40 HP (Horsepower - Horse Power) Outboards Marine Engine Johnson/Evinrude 2Stroke 2-Stroke Two Stroke & 4Stroke 4-Stroke Four Stroke models. 1973-1990 Johnson Evinrude Service Manual 48 235 HP Outboard & Sea Drives Johnson - Evinrude Service Manual Application: 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990 Outboard & Sea Drive (Sea Drives) For 48 50 55 60 65 70 75 85 88 90 100 110 115 120 135 140 150 175 185 200 225 & 235 HP (Horsepower - Horse Power) Outboard & Sea Drive Marine Engine Johnson/Evinrude 2Stroke 2-Stroke Two Stroke & 4Stroke 4-Stroke Four Stroke models. You can compare the major components of an outboard with the engine and drivetrain of your car or truck. In doing so, the powerhead is the equivalent of the engine and the gearcase is the equivalent of your drivetrain (the the power necessary to move the'vehicle, while the gearcask is thk assembly that transmits that power via gears, shafts and a propeller (instead of tires).

Speaking in this manner, the powerhead is the 'engine' or 'motor' portion of your outboard. It is an assembly of long-life components that are protected through proper maintenance. Lubrication, the use of high-quality oils (2- stroke or 4-stroke) and proper fuelioil ratios (2-stroke) or frequent oil inspectionlchanges (4-stroke) are the most important ways to preserve powerhead condition. Similarly, proper tune-ups that help maintain proper airlfuel mixture ratios and prevent pinging, knocking or other potentially damaging operating conditions are the next best way to preserve your motor. But, even given the best of conditions, components in a motor begin wearing the first time the motor is started and will continue to do so over the life of the powerhead.

Eventually, all powerheads will require some repair. The particular broken or worn component, plus the age and overall condition of the motor may help dictate whether a small repair or major overhaul is warranted.

The complexity of the job will vary with 2 major factors. As much as you can generalize about mechanical work: transmissionltransaxle T. He powerhead is the assemblv that produces.

the more difficult the repair The larger and more complex the motor, the more difficult the repair. Again, these are generalizations and, working carefully, a skilled do-ityourself boater can disassemble and repair a as a seasoned professional. But both DlYers and professionals must know their limits. These days, many professionals will leave portions of machine work (from cylinder block and piston disassembly, clean and inspection to honing and assembly up to a machinist). This is not because they are not capable of the task, but because that's what a machinist does day in and day out.

A machinist is naturally going to be more experienced with the procedures. If a complete powerhead overhaul is necessary on your outboard, we recommend that you find a local machine shop that has both an excellent reputation and that specializes in marine work. This is just as important and handv a resource to the rofessionaal s a DIYer. If ossiblec. Onsult with the machke shop before disassembly to make sure you follow procedures or mark components, as they would desire. Some machine shops would prefer to perform the disassembly themselves.

In these cases, you can usually remove the powerhead from the gearcase and deliver the entire unit to the shop for disassembly, inspection, machining and assembly. If you decide to perform the entire overhaul yourself, proceed slowly, taking care to following instructions closely. Consider using a digital camera (if available) to help document assemblies during the removal and disassembly procedures. This can be especially helpful if the overhaul or rebuild is going to take place over an extended amount of time.

If this is your first overhaul, don't even THINK about trying to get it done in one weekend, YOU WON'T. It is better to proceed slowly, asking help when necessary from your trusted parts counterman or a tech with experience on these motors.

Keep in mind that anytime pistons, rings and bearings have been replaced, the powerhead must be broken-in again, as if it were a brand-new motor. Once a major overhaul is completed, refer to the section on Powerhead Break-In for details on how to ensure the rings set properly without damage or scoring to the new cylinder wall or the piston surfaces. Careful break-in or a properly overhauled motor will ensure many years of service for the trusty powerhead.

The age of the motor (the older OR less well maintained the motor is) 70 hp EFI powerhead, as well. + See Figure 1 The gearcase is considered that part of the outboard below the midsectioniexhaust housing. The gearcase contains the propeller shaft, the driven and pinion gears, the driveshaft from the powerhead and the water pump. On models equipped with shifting capabilities, the fonvard and reverse gears, together with the clutch, shift assembly, and related linkage, are all housed within the case. The single most important task for proper gearcase maintenance is inspecting it for signs of leakage after each use. If oil can get out, then water can get in.

And, water, mixing with or replacing the oil in the gearcase will wreak havoc with the shafts and gears contained within the housinq. The second most important task for proper gearcase maintenance is checkinq and maintainina the oil inside the case. Not onlv is it imortantto make sire the oil is at t k proper level (not above or below), but it is important to check the oil for signs of contamination from moisture. Water entering the gearcase will usually cause the oil to turn a slightly milky-white color. Also, significant amounts of water mixed with the oil will give the appearance of an overfilled condition. If you suspect water in the gearcase, start by draining and closely inspecting the fluid (refer to the procedures found in the Maintenance and Tune-Up section).

Then, refill the unit with fresh oil and test the outboard (by using it!). Watch the fluid level closely after the test, and for the first few outings. If any oil leaks out or water enters, either the propeller shaft seal must be replaced or the gearcase must be disassembled, inspected and completely overhauled. To be honest, a complete overhaul is recommended, because corrosion and damage may have occurred if moisture was in the gearcase long enough. But, in some cases, if the leak was caught in time, and there is no significant wear, damage or corrosion in the gearcase, the propeller shaft seal can usually be replaced with the gearcase still installed to the outboard. The last, most important task you can perform to help keep your gearcase in top shape, is to flush the inside and outside of the aearcase after each use.'

inseth e outside of the unit with a hose to remove any sea life, salt, chemicals or other corrosion inducing substances that you may have picked up in the water. Cleaning the gearcase will also help you spot potential Fig. Maximum efficiency, compared with a unit receiving TLC (tender loving care) 1 A neglected lower unit cannot be expected to perform to trouble, such as gearcase oil leaks, cracks or damage that may have occurred during use. Remove any sand, silt or dirt that could potentially damage seals or clog passages. Once you've rinsed the outside, hook up a flushing device and do the same for the inside.

Again, details are found in the Maintenance and Tune-up section, look under Flushing the Cooling System. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The most common reason for removrng and installing the gearcase perform service (inspect or replace) the water pump impeller. On all motors except the 2.0-3.5 hp (78cc) motors, the water pump is found on the IS to gearcase-to-midsection housing) split line.

On 2.0-3.5 hp (78cc) motors the pump is mounted just in front of the propeller, so the gearcase does not have to be removed on these small motors in order to service the pump. Removal and installation roceduresa re rovidedh ere for each of the gearcases used on these &nson/vinrude'motorsE. Xploded views are also provided, in case disassembly and overhaul are required. (sometimes known as the intermediate or exhaust ColtiJunior (43cc) Motors + See Figures 2 and 3 1. For safety, disconnect the spark plug lead, then ground it to the cylinder head. If necessary for service or access, remove the propeller, for details refer to the procedure in the Maintenance and Tune-Up section. Remove the two screws securing the lower unit to the exhaust housing.

Taking Care not to damage the driveshaft and the water tube, separate the lower unit from the exhaust housing by pulling straight downward. Thoroughly inspect the gearcase and exhaust housing for signs of damage. Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and free of debris, corrosion or damage.

If necessary for service or overhaul, drain the gear oil from the To install: 7. Apply a light coating of OMC Moly Lube, or equivalent assembly lubricant to the driveshaft splines. Be sure to coat only the SIDES of the splines and not the top of the shaft, as that could hydraulically prevent the driveshaft from fully seating in the crankshaft spline. Apply a light coat of clean liquid soap to the water tube grommet. Apply a light coating of OMC Nut Lock, or equivalent threadlock to the threads of the 2 gearcase mounting screws.

Install the gearcase, while carefully aligning the water tube in the arommet and the driveshaft slinesto the crankshaft shaft. If necessarv, turn?he propeller shaft slowly clockwise (when viewed from the shaft end) io align the splines.

The Johnson-Evinrude Workshop manual downloads for the above listed models describes the service procedures for the complete vehicle. Follow the Maintenance Schedule recommendations to ensure that the outboard is in peak operating condition.

Performing the scheduled maintenance is very important. It compensates for the initial wear that occurs during the life of the outboard motor. All chapters in the Workshop Manual apply to the whole vehicle and illustrates procedures for removal/installation of components that are in detailed step-by-step fashion. Most all Workshop manual chapters start with an assembly or system illustration, diagrams, exploded parts view, pictures, service information and troubleshooting for the section. The subsequent pages give detailed procedures. PROBLEM 1: ENGINE TURNS OVER BUT WILL NOT START OR STARTS HARD WHEN COLD Possible Cause Corrective Action Improper starting procedure.

Check procedure, as outlined in “Operation and Maintenance Manual.” Fuel tank empty; improperly mixed fuel; contaminants (water, dirt, etc.) in fuel. Check fuel in fuel tank and replace or add. Fuel tank air vent closed or restricted. Air vent must be open and free from contaminants.

A pinched or restricted fuel line. Check, and replace as needed. Dirty or restricted fuel filter. Check, replace or clean. Enrichener valve not operating. Check enrichener system. (Refer to “Enrichener System” following.) An inlet needle (in carburetor) that is stuck open or closed.

(A needle stuck open, will cause a flooding condition. A needle stuck closed, will prevent fuel from entering carburetor.) Remove, clean, or replace. Anti-Siphon valve restricting fuel flow. Refer to “Checking for Restricted Fuel Flow caused by Anti-Siphon Valves”, following. See “Checking for Restricted Fuel Flow caused by Anti-Siphon Valves”, page 3A-1.

PROBLEM: ENGINE FLOODS Possible Cause Corrective Action Dirt or foreign particles are preventing inlet needle from seating. Flush out inlet seat and clean inlet needle. Worn inlet needle. Punctured float. Incorrect float setting. PROBLEM: ENGINE RUNS TOO LEAN Possible Cause Corrective Action Carburetor is loose.

Mercury 40 Hp Outboard Manual

Air leaks past mixing chamber cover. Tighten bolts securely. Tighten cover or replace gasket. Fuel level too low. Reset float level. Clogged high speed jet.

Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Manual

Check and clean. Restricted fuel flow to carburetor. Check fuel lines and filter(s) for restricted flow.

Incorrect high speed jet. Refer to main jet chart and replace with proper jet. Idle mixture set too lean.

Adjust to run richener. Air leakage into fuel system. Check fuel line connections, hose clamps, fuel pump, and fuel outlet tube (located in fuel tank) for loose fittings. Anti-Siphon valve restricting fuel flow.

Refer to “Checking for restricted fuel flow caused by Anti-Siphon valves.” PROBLEM: ENGINE RUNS TOO RICH Possible Cause Corrective Action Fuel level too high. Reset float to correct level. Carburetor floods.

See preceding “Engine Floods” Idle nozzle air holes plugged. Blow out with compressed air. Restricted air flow. Check cowl air inlet and carburetor for obstructions. Main Fuel Jet loose. Retighten Jet. PROBLEM 1: ENGINE IDLES ROUGH AND STALLS PROBLEM 2: ENGINE RUNS UNEVEN OR SURGES PROBLEM 3: ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE Possible Cause Corrective Action Fuel tank air vent closed or restricted.

Check - Air vent must be open all-the-way and free from restrictions. A pinched, cut or restricted fuel line; also loose fuel line connection. Check all fuel lines and replace as needed. Check and tighten all fuel line connections. A dirty or restricted fuel filter. Check, replace, or clean all fuel filters.

Restricted filter in fuel tank. Clean by rinsing in clean lead-free gasoline or kerosene. Improperly mixed fuel; contaminants (water, dirt, etc.) in fuel. Check fuel and replace, if necessary. An inlet needle (in carburetor) that is either stuck open or closed.

(A needle, that is stuck open, will cause a flooding condition. A needle, that is stuck closed, will prevent fuel from entering carburetor.) Remove and replace with new inlet needle. Incorrect idle mixture adjustment.

Damaged fuel pump diaphragm. Carburetor is loose. Tighten bolts securely. Chamber cover leaking air. Tighten or replace gasket.

Off idle holes plugged. Blow out with compressed air. Main nozzle or idle nozzle air bleed holes plugged.

Blow out with compressed air. Improper main jet or restricted jet. Clean or replace with proper jet (refer to “Main Jet Chart”). Damaged reed(s). Inspect reeds as outlined in Section 4A.

A crack in the fuel pick-up outlet tube (located in fuel tank). A crack in the fuel outlet tube (located in fuel tank.) Replace.

Anti-Siphon valve restricting fuel flow. Refer to “Checking for Restricted Fuel Flow Caused by Anti-Siphon Valves,” following. Gilera runner vx 125 4 stroke manual. PROBLEM: FUEL BLOW-BACK OUT OF CARBURETOR Possible Cause Corrective Action Chipped/Broken (reed-block) Reeds Replace Reeds. PROBLEM: ROUGH IDLE If related to reed-block, indicates excessive preload in reeds.

Replace Reeds. PROBLEM: CAN’T REDUCE ENGINE RPM TO SLOW IDLE Multiple Chipped Reeds. Replace Reeds. Checking for Restricted Fuel Flow Caused by Anti-Siphon Valves While anti-siphon valves are helpful from a safety standpoint, they clog, they may be too small, or they may have too heavy a spring.

The pressure drop across these valves can, create operational problems and/or powerhead damage by restricting fuel. Some symptoms of restricted (lean) fuel flow, are: 1. Loss of fuel pump pressure 2. Loss of power 3. High speed surging 4.

Preignition/detonation (piston dome erosion) 5. Outboard cuts out or hesitates upon acceleration 6. Outboard runs rough 7. Outboard quits and cannot be restarted 8. Outboard will not start 9.

Vapor lock Any type of anti-siphon device must be located between the outboard fuel inlet and fuel tank outlet. A method of checking if such a device (or bad fuel) is a problem source is to operate the outboard with a separate fuel supply which is known to be good. If, it is found that the anti-siphon valve is the cause of the problem, either 1) replace the anti-siphon valve or 2) replace it with a solenoid-operated fuel shutoff valve. 1973 1990 Johnson Evinrude 2 to 40 HP Service Manual Outboard Johnson - Evinrude Service Manual Application: 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990 Outboard For 2, 2.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 6, 7.5, 8, 9.5, 9.9, 15, 18, 20, 25, 28, 30, 35, 40 HP (Horsepower - Horse Power) Outboards Marine Engine Johnson/Evinrude 2Stroke 2-Stroke Two Stroke & 4Stroke 4-Stroke Four Stroke models. 1973-1990 Johnson Evinrude Service Manual 48 235 HP Outboard & Sea Drives Johnson - Evinrude Service Manual Application: 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990 Outboard & Sea Drive (Sea Drives) For 48 50 55 60 65 70 75 85 88 90 100 110 115 120 135 140 150 175 185 200 225 & 235 HP (Horsepower - Horse Power) Outboard & Sea Drive Marine Engine Johnson/Evinrude 2Stroke 2-Stroke Two Stroke & 4Stroke 4-Stroke Four Stroke models.