Miller Syncrowave 300 Manual
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My Specs Engine: 4.0/aw4/231 Transmission: aw4 with 1200cfm fan and cooler in the back, all stainless braided hose with -6AN fittings Transfer Case: NP231 with AA SYE, High Angle Driveline shaft Front Axle: D30, full chromolly truss and heli-arc welded throughout Rear Axle: Ford 9' with Strange 35-spline spool, Teraflex HD 35-spline shafts, Disk Brakes, Fully trussed Axle Gear Ratio: Secret information, would cost many beers to get this information from me. Suspension: Full TRaction long arms, a whole bunch of home fabbed plating/bumpers/doodads Tires: 33'x10.50'x15' BFG Baja T/As Wheels: 15'x7' AR Outlaw IIs, rims are considered disposable in a desert racing environment. Recovery: Duh, it's a race truck, tow straps, radio, flare gun, snacks, spares and tools Armor: Fully caged and spec'd jeepspeed race truck fully caged and plated with all safety features Accessories: fresh air helmet pumpers, power steering cooler, trans cooler, Swayaway 2.5' x 10' trvl 3-tube, Future Mods: many dents and cracks I'm sure. Just got back from a service call in San Jose and did a bit of mule trading and came up with a Miller Syncrowave 300, a large bandsaw and a rotary welding fixture! Looks like I'll be looking for somebody to show me how to work this damn thing now! Many more knobs and dials than my mig welder Should be lots of fun. Anyways I am looking for somebody that has some pointers so I can start practicing, initial set-up, etc.
I still need to hook up a water chiller for the torch head but after that I should be able to plug it in and start messing around. If there is actually somebody in the Ventura, CA, 93001 area I would either pay or trade for machine use to show me some pointers. Useful Write-Ups: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater.
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Funny: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. My Specs Engine: 4.0/aw4/231 Transmission: aw4 with 1200cfm fan and cooler in the back, all stainless braided hose with -6AN fittings Transfer Case: NP231 with AA SYE, High Angle Driveline shaft Front Axle: D30, full chromolly truss and heli-arc welded throughout Rear Axle: Ford 9' with Strange 35-spline spool, Teraflex HD 35-spline shafts, Disk Brakes, Fully trussed Axle Gear Ratio: Secret information, would cost many beers to get this information from me.
Suspension: Full TRaction long arms, a whole bunch of home fabbed plating/bumpers/doodads Tires: 33'x10.50'x15' BFG Baja T/As Wheels: 15'x7' AR Outlaw IIs, rims are considered disposable in a desert racing environment. Recovery: Duh, it's a race truck, tow straps, radio, flare gun, snacks, spares and tools Armor: Fully caged and spec'd jeepspeed race truck fully caged and plated with all safety features Accessories: fresh air helmet pumpers, power steering cooler, trans cooler, Swayaway 2.5' x 10' trvl 3-tube, Future Mods: many dents and cracks I'm sure. AWESOME, thanks much, I never even thought to check for the manual on the website, it is a much older machine, but they had it on there! Still waiting for some time to unload and set it up. I will be using it mainly for Stainless and aluminum so looks like I'll be signing up for a tig class at the local college, back to school for me. I did place a craigslist ad for some training and got a few replies from some seemingly very competent individuals so I am going to give that a shot first, thanks guys! I really look forward to my next phase in melting metals.
AWESOME, thanks much, I never even thought to check for the manual on the website, it is a much older machine, but they had it on there! Still waiting for some time to unload and set it up. I will be using it mainly for Stainless and aluminum so looks like I'll be signing up for a tig class at the local college, back to school for me. I did place a craigslist ad for some training and got a few replies from some seemingly very competent individuals so I am going to give that a shot first, thanks guys! I really look forward to my next phase in melting metals. I took a welding class and afterwards i felt it was a total waste, since the teacher has to split his time with all the students I was never really able to get a solid footing on everything covered. Honestly i think your best bet is have someone that knows how to weld give u the basics.
Afterwards it then all comes down to time under the helmet. My Specs Engine: 4.0/aw4/231 Transmission: aw4 with 1200cfm fan and cooler in the back, all stainless braided hose with -6AN fittings Transfer Case: NP231 with AA SYE, High Angle Driveline shaft Front Axle: D30, full chromolly truss and heli-arc welded throughout Rear Axle: Ford 9' with Strange 35-spline spool, Teraflex HD 35-spline shafts, Disk Brakes, Fully trussed Axle Gear Ratio: Secret information, would cost many beers to get this information from me. Suspension: Full TRaction long arms, a whole bunch of home fabbed plating/bumpers/doodads Tires: 33'x10.50'x15' BFG Baja T/As Wheels: 15'x7' AR Outlaw IIs, rims are considered disposable in a desert racing environment. Recovery: Duh, it's a race truck, tow straps, radio, flare gun, snacks, spares and tools Armor: Fully caged and spec'd jeepspeed race truck fully caged and plated with all safety features Accessories: fresh air helmet pumpers, power steering cooler, trans cooler, Swayaway 2.5' x 10' trvl 3-tube, Future Mods: many dents and cracks I'm sure. My Specs Engine: 4.0/aw4/231 Transmission: aw4 with 1200cfm fan and cooler in the back, all stainless braided hose with -6AN fittings Transfer Case: NP231 with AA SYE, High Angle Driveline shaft Front Axle: D30, full chromolly truss and heli-arc welded throughout Rear Axle: Ford 9' with Strange 35-spline spool, Teraflex HD 35-spline shafts, Disk Brakes, Fully trussed Axle Gear Ratio: Secret information, would cost many beers to get this information from me. Suspension: Full TRaction long arms, a whole bunch of home fabbed plating/bumpers/doodads Tires: 33'x10.50'x15' BFG Baja T/As Wheels: 15'x7' AR Outlaw IIs, rims are considered disposable in a desert racing environment.
Recovery: Duh, it's a race truck, tow straps, radio, flare gun, snacks, spares and tools Armor: Fully caged and spec'd jeepspeed race truck fully caged and plated with all safety features Accessories: fresh air helmet pumpers, power steering cooler, trans cooler, Swayaway 2.5' x 10' trvl 3-tube, Future Mods: many dents and cracks I'm sure. For now I have some.120' 4130 scrap plate(is there such a thing as scrap 4130? ), I have 2% thoriated in 3/32 and 1/16, hw-20 torch with #5 cups and some 3/32 ER70S-2 filler rod. I am confused about the high frequency intensity as that knob is under the panel, although when I got the machine it was tuned off on the front panel. Any insight on any of these settings would be greatly appreciated, I have a buddy that is going to come by later this week and show me a few things but I would like to be better prepared so I am not wasting anybodies time. Thanks a bunch guys!
I am VERY excited to get into tig welding as we outsource lots of stainless/aluminum tig work and it would be nice to be able to do it in-house(after I get proficient of course). Ill try to run you through the controls in the simplest terms (you will see places where i talk about SMAW (Stick) Vs GTAW (TIG). Because some of the controls are set differently for those processes. Ill go picture by picture for you.
PIC 1) Contactor: this controls how the ARC is established standard = SMAW (Stick). This means the leads are HOT, constantly! Remote = GTAW (TIG).
This means the leads are COLD, until you press the foot pedal / contactor switch on your GTAW torch (whichever you have). Current: this controls how the current is adjusted while welding Panel = SMAW. Set your amps on the machine panel, and that is what you get, no variance. Remote = GTAW. Set your amps on the machine, and you can adjust the amperage output with the remote contactor (foot pedal, switch on your torch. Whichever you have) High Frequency: HF is used to jump the air gap when GTA welding so you dont have to scratch start your weld and risk contamination.
It is also used to reignite the arc when welding on AC (the current goes from positive to negative, crossing the zero barrier. Without HF, the arc will fire for 1/2 of a cycle and die). Start = GTAW DC (welding on steel).
This uses HF ONLY to start the arc. After the arc is established, it is no longer running HF. Off = SMAW / Scratch Start GTAW (i dont recommend SSGTAW unless you know what you are doing). No HF is used at any point during welding Continuous = GTAW AC. Used for AC welding, mandatory. Crater Fill = GTAW ONLY. Used to slowly ramp down the amperage at the end of the weld.
Helps the puddle solidify properly without leave (as large of) a crater. OUT = Off PIC 2) Start Current GTAW. Sets the current for the first second of welding.
1-10 scale is nominal, you need to read the amp and volt meters to actually see what the start current is. PIC 3) AC BalanceGTAW AC. Sets the amount of time spent in either the negative or positive portion of the AC cycle. Max cleaning is more time in DC+ and max penetration is more time in DC. '3' or balanced is 50/50 split. Try more cleaning for oxide prone materials like aluminum.
Fun to tinker with, this will also affect the bead profile and shape to an extent. Post-Flow Time GTAW. This sets the amount of time, in seconds, that shielding gas will continue to flow AFTER THE ARC HAS BEEN EXTINGUISHED. This protects the hot tungsten from oxidizing and also shield the weld pool while it cools. I use a 10-18 sec PFT depending on the amperages used. PIC 4) Spot Time adjustable from 0 to 5 seconds.
Timer for the power source when spot welding is desired. With the remote contacter depressed and held, an internal timer will extinguish the arc after the preset time.
PIC 5) Pre-FlowGTAW. Sets the amount of time in seconds, after the remote contactor is depressed and held, that shielding gas will flow before the machine will close the circuit and establish the arc. This is very useful for purging lines and purging the weld area. I used a 3-5 second purge time on the capable machines (otherwise, i just tap the pedal to let gas flow, thus activating the post flow timer, and allow that to purge the lines.
I recommend it highly). PIC 6) HF Intensity control GTAW.
Controls the intensity of the HF. If your HF is too weak to jump the air gap when initiating the arc, increase the intensity. Be forewarned, HF can, and likely will, cause interference with closeby electronics. Use the lowest setting possible. I hope that helps you out. And for future reference, owners manuals are available for free though miller electrics website. Here is the link to the manual for your welder.
I highly suggest printing it and keeping it on top of / nearby the welder for quick reference. For GTAW welding of Steels and most ferrous metals. You will want it set on Straight polarity (DC Electrode Negative). For the 0.120 4130. I suggest you try the 3/32 2% Thoriated, set on about 125 amps. You will not need all of the 125 amps.
But learn to use the pedal and throttle your amperage. Its nice to have some in reserve in case you need it. Do not get in the habit of setting your machine on the exact amperage you need and just holding the pedal to the floor.
Its cheating and its hack as sh.t. Get cups ranging from 4-8 and you should be able to tackle anything a home welder would encounter. For AC welding. Pure tungsten (green) is the norm. I highly suggest zirconiated tungsten (brown) as it balls beautifully and resists contamination. Though be forewarned, Zr tungsten is nearly 5 times the cost of pure tungsten (i pay about $15 for a 1/8' Zr tungsten).
Get collets and collet bodies for all the sizes of tungsten you will need (i suggest for DC welding, sizes 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8. For AC i suggest 3/32, 1/8, and 5/32. AC welding put more heat into the tungsten, so for the same amperage between dc and ac welding. You will need a larger tungsten for the AC). Your current breaker is insufficient.
It will likely work at low outputs for some time or high outputs for a limited time. But dont count on it. Going by the manual, depending your model (with out without PFC. Check your serial number and possibly call miller to check your options), at 220V your machine will pull a max amp rating of 96 amps (100 amp breaker) if it is equipped with PFC or a max of 120 amps (150 amp breaker) without PFC. A larger breaker is in your near future. And if this is on your home circuit ( assuming a 200 amp service) be ready to turn off anything that is drawing power.
Else you will be kicking your main. My Specs Engine: 4.0/aw4/231 Transmission: aw4 with 1200cfm fan and cooler in the back, all stainless braided hose with -6AN fittings Transfer Case: NP231 with AA SYE, High Angle Driveline shaft Front Axle: D30, full chromolly truss and heli-arc welded throughout Rear Axle: Ford 9' with Strange 35-spline spool, Teraflex HD 35-spline shafts, Disk Brakes, Fully trussed Axle Gear Ratio: Secret information, would cost many beers to get this information from me.
Suspension: Full TRaction long arms, a whole bunch of home fabbed plating/bumpers/doodads Tires: 33'x10.50'x15' BFG Baja T/As Wheels: 15'x7' AR Outlaw IIs, rims are considered disposable in a desert racing environment. Recovery: Duh, it's a race truck, tow straps, radio, flare gun, snacks, spares and tools Armor: Fully caged and spec'd jeepspeed race truck fully caged and plated with all safety features Accessories: fresh air helmet pumpers, power steering cooler, trans cooler, Swayaway 2.5' x 10' trvl 3-tube, Future Mods: many dents and cracks I'm sure. Thanks sooo much Jonesy! Definitely above and beyond, I owe you one! Most definitely a 100A breaker is in the future, it is not at home so nothing else is on the circuit, for now I'll just have to stick to the smaller materials until I can afford the wire to run the 100A breaker. I tried it out a bit yesterday and all I can say is.I need some serious practice, much harder than the old squirtgun! Thanks again Jonsey, you have no idea how much I appreciateyour time and detailed explanations, very cool of you!
Miller Syncrowave 300 Manual Foot Pedal
My Specs Engine: 4.0/aw4/231 Transmission: aw4 with 1200cfm fan and cooler in the back, all stainless braided hose with -6AN fittings Transfer Case: NP231 with AA SYE, High Angle Driveline shaft Front Axle: D30, full chromolly truss and heli-arc welded throughout Rear Axle: Ford 9' with Strange 35-spline spool, Teraflex HD 35-spline shafts, Disk Brakes, Fully trussed Axle Gear Ratio: Secret information, would cost many beers to get this information from me. Suspension: Full TRaction long arms, a whole bunch of home fabbed plating/bumpers/doodads Tires: 33'x10.50'x15' BFG Baja T/As Wheels: 15'x7' AR Outlaw IIs, rims are considered disposable in a desert racing environment. Recovery: Duh, it's a race truck, tow straps, radio, flare gun, snacks, spares and tools Armor: Fully caged and spec'd jeepspeed race truck fully caged and plated with all safety features Accessories: fresh air helmet pumpers, power steering cooler, trans cooler, Swayaway 2.5' x 10' trvl 3-tube, Future Mods: many dents and cracks I'm sure. So much prep time and only a few minutes of welding as I keep on contaminating my tungsten. I am starting to get the feed/pedal/torch movements coordinated a little better but it looks like i have some serious practice to do!
Jonseys tips helped me very much as I first had the high freq turned off and had to scratch start, thought it may have been a ground issue. Anyways a pic of my first joint weld, did my first few beads on flat plate with no filler, then moved to the filler, then finally a joint(with lots and lots of prep time in between). Looks like I may be going back to the flat plate as I need to get the movements down better. Too much undercut and a poor weld profile, but hey.it is a bead at least thanks again Jonsey, I really owe you one!
Free Miller Syncrowave 300 Manual
Hw-20 torch w/#5 cup, 1/16' 2% thoriated, 3/32' ER70S-2 on.120' mild steel. My Specs Engine: 4.0/aw4/231 Transmission: aw4 with 1200cfm fan and cooler in the back, all stainless braided hose with -6AN fittings Transfer Case: NP231 with AA SYE, High Angle Driveline shaft Front Axle: D30, full chromolly truss and heli-arc welded throughout Rear Axle: Ford 9' with Strange 35-spline spool, Teraflex HD 35-spline shafts, Disk Brakes, Fully trussed Axle Gear Ratio: Secret information, would cost many beers to get this information from me. Suspension: Full TRaction long arms, a whole bunch of home fabbed plating/bumpers/doodads Tires: 33'x10.50'x15' BFG Baja T/As Wheels: 15'x7' AR Outlaw IIs, rims are considered disposable in a desert racing environment.
Recovery: Duh, it's a race truck, tow straps, radio, flare gun, snacks, spares and tools Armor: Fully caged and spec'd jeepspeed race truck fully caged and plated with all safety features Accessories: fresh air helmet pumpers, power steering cooler, trans cooler, Swayaway 2.5' x 10' trvl 3-tube, Future Mods: many dents and cracks I'm sure.