[Archive] Discussions pertaining to vintage shotguns such as the Model 30. Disassembly instructions for the (Savage Model 1921 slideaction shotgun, 12 ga.). Reassemble a Savage Pump Shot Gun 1921 Old Model 58 12 G Shotgun. Find stevens model 58 for sale at GunBroker.com, the world's largest gun auction site. You can buy stevens model 58 with confidence from thousands of sellers who list every day. BOLT ACTION SHOTGUNS Model 212 and Model 220. (Canada), Stevens and Fox. Gun’s instruction manual and the manufactur.

• Stevens Model 58 Shotgun Manual

Said Hello and thanks for your question. I attached a good manual in PDF for the Fn Fal which is the same rifle only in metric all other info is identical. If you find you need more info let me know.

I have a full manual here and have access to other material. Also if you have specific questions I’ll be glad to help. The new 50 cal rifles are generally very good. The only down side is cost of the rifle and ammo. The rifle to have is one of the types from Barrett. They hace the best most reliable and accurate rifles in 50 cal.

If you plan on shooting a good bit then reloading is a good idea since 50 rounds of that caliber will run about $6 per round or more. Thank again and I hope this helps you:-) Phil.

Said Jordan, Man that’s a tough one. They are only valued at about $100 and they didn’t sell terribly well even though that was my first shotgun in 1963. You might join this forum–Shotgun World and see if anyone has a manual they would copy for you.

Another idea is to call Marlin and see if they may have any. Doubtful honestly since Remington bought Marlin and they are in a transition period. Numrich has the best selection of gun parts so they are worth a call. They also have a schematic for it.

Sorry I can’t come up with more than that but it’s a place to start. Take care, Phil. Ted Rigg said I have a Winchester model 25 12 gauge shotgun. I am wanting to clean the internal parts, and see why the shells won’t stay in when you put them in the tube of the gun. It is suppose to hold 2 shells, and 1 in the chamber. The stop to hold the 2 shells in the tube is not working correctly.

The gun is not suppose to be broke down, but i don’t see any other way to properly clean it or fix the shell stop without taking it down. Cannot find any information on the web thought i would see if you could help. Said Hello Ted, I wish I had better news for you.

The model 25 was only made from 1949/1954. The gun is basically a non-takedown model 12. There’s no way for the owner to get to the part that needs replacement. In most shotguns there is a hook like attachment that is spring loaded on most of them.

If the spring is worn out or the part breaks it will do just what your describing. About the only thing you can do is have a gunsmith replace the part. I doubt a model 25 part can be found but a model 12 part should work on it. I believe the reason they were only made for that short period is the fact you can’t disassemble them.

Take care, Phil. Jeanne said Hey Gunner, I took a couple of pictures and have looked at the manual for the mini AWI 22. It seems that the triggers are basically the same. Now that I have studied it a bit more, I don’t think the little black part came out of the trigger group. It was not covered with oil or dust like the trigger group components were. Its clean, like it hasn’t seen the light of day since the gun was put together.

I’m not sure how to post the pictures on here but I would like to send you the manual and the photos’s.

The technique may not solve every old gun’s safety problems, but raising a few dimples has worked more than once. By Chick Blood, American Gunsmith Book of the Shotgun I noticed the bolt on the old shotgun was closed when it was being taken out of its case, so I asked the owner to open it. When he touched the bolt, the striker released. I was mighty relieved that he had remembered to unload the piece before bringing it into my shop. Another person standing at the end of the counter, which happened to be at the shotgun’s muzzle end, was even more relieved than I was. For what it was worth, the gun’s owner assured everyone present that merely touching the bolt had never before released the striker. He’d purchased his Model 58 new in the mid 1950s.

Around 1971, it began to develop a tendency to let the striker go when the trigger was pulled with the safety on. He had been able, he said, to control the malfunction by “nursing” the bolt forward or leaving the safety off. By the time he brought the gun to me in 1994, the tendency had become a nasty habit and the insides of the Model 58 were obviously worn to critically dangerous extremes. Once I had run a few dummy rounds through the piece and had it field stripped on my bench, it wasn’t hard to locate the trouble spots. The Model 58’s safety is located on the right hand side of the receiver. When I slid the bolt home with the safety off, trigger and sear interface was pretty solid and the pull tested out to a slightly mushy 5 pounds. When the bolt was then opened, closed, locked down and the safety moved rearward to its “on” position, the trigger simultaneously pivoted down to all but disengage with the sear.

A gentle rap anywhere on the barreled action was all it took to release the striker forward. The pull was less than an ounce. The 58 could have gone off while being shouldered or bumped against a branch. That it had not can only be chalked up to dumb luck. The wear in the trigger assembly somehow had to be corrected, or the shotgun had to be junked. A new trigger, trigger spring, sear and safety lever would have been the ideal solution, but a few calls to my normally reliable parts sources came up with a zero on availability.

Machining the trigger, sear and safety lever from scratch would have run the cost far beyond both the dollar and sentimental value of the gun, so that was ruled out. Instead, I decided on a repair that had worked very well on some other old rifles and shotguns with similar problems. It isn’t a universal cure-all—if there is such a thing—so choose when and where to use it wisely.

Courtesy, American Gunsmith Magazine The safety problem with the Model 58 was created by the spring (1), the safety lever (2), and where the safety lever came in contact with the trigger (3). On the Model 58, the trigger spring is seated between the trigger and the sear. When the trigger is pulled, the spring is compressed, forcing the sear up to disengage with the trigger hook, which has been pivoted downward. When the trigger is released, the stored energy in the spring pivots the trigger hook upward while easing pressure on the sear and allowing reengagement with the trigger hook. If the safety is moved to its “on” position at this time, it pivots the safety lever down on its pin to block the trigger’s rear extension. This particular Model 58’s trigger spring had been weakened by years of heavy use, and was no longer strong enough to prevent the trigger from pivoting away from the sear when the safety lever contacted the trigger extension.

The spring had to be replaced, but how strong was the spring when it was new? My examination of the trigger extension at the point it contacts the safety lever had shown signs of wear and raised another question: Would a stronger spring than the original be needed to (1) help close the gap between the lever and the extension, and (2) apply force enough to hold the trigger firm against the lever’s downward pressure? If I had known the strength of the original spring, I’d likely have found a serviceable replacement for it in Brownells catalog, but I didn’t. So I sent the old spring, along with my other questions, to Wolff Spring Company in Newton Square, Pennsylvania, the mushroom capital of the United States. Wolff has ways of determining the weight of springs. A few days later, I received a packet of springs they’d chosen for me to experiment with. Included were two of Wolff’s long, general purpose English springs; two 10-pound Taurus 669 trigger return springs and the original from the Model 58.

An accompanying note explained that Wolff could not supply an exact replacement, but that the enclosed springs should be adaptable to the Model 58. I began the fitting process by counting the coils in the old spring, counting an equal number of coils in one of the English springs and cutting it off at that point. After installing the new spring, I cycled the bolt and moved the safety to its “on” position. The striker released.

Stevens Model 58 Shotgun Manual

I cut another chunk out of the English spring, this one a little longer, and tested it again. This time, there was less separation between trigger/sear engagement when the safety was moved to “on” and the striker stayed put. However, the trigger pull had only gained a few ounces and was still too light for a hunting gun. Courtesy, American Gunsmith Magazine The English and Taurus springs are shown above the trigger before cutting. The original spring is below. Cuts were made by counting coils, not by length.

Next, I tried a 10-pound Taurus spring. After cutting it according to coils and installing it, I gained a safer pull, but the trigger hook was still moving off the sear when the safety lever put pressure on the trigger extension. I took the remaining Taurus spring, cut it two coils longer and managed to hold it in place while I worked in the trigger pivot pin. When I ran the checkout, there was no movement off the sear, so the heavier, over-length spring was part of the solution.

What remained to be corrected was the play between the safety lever and the trigger extension. The extension was worn at the point of contact. With the safety “on,” the lever could be wobbled forward and backward on the extension’s surface. If that wearing process continued, it would have a negative effect on the function of the safety sooner or later.

Here’s where things got into a “Catch 22” mode. The safety lever’s pressure on the trigger extension was causing disengagement between the sear and trigger and had been corrected with a heavier spring. Would improved contact between the extension and the lever recreate the problem, and require a still heavier spring? And could such a spring even be fitted to the gun?

I considered three ways to raise the worn area on the trigger extension’s sur­face: build it up with silver solder, insert a pin in it, or take a prick punch to it. The trigger on this Model 58 appeared to be case hardened, so I didn’t want to heat it up. Drilling and inserting a pin of drill rod in the extension, then filing/grinding it down was a definite possibility, but I decided to try the punch first. If that didn’t work, I could always put in the pin. After locking the trigger in a vise, I raised one dimple on the extension. It wasn’t enough to take the play out of the safety lever, so I raised another dimple just to the rear of the first one.

Two dimples later, there was good contact, no slop, no need to worry about a heavier spring and no more safety problems. After that, to clean up the mushy trigger pull, I polished the trigger/sear interfaces. Not high tech, but dimples I raised for similar reasons on the trigger mechanisms of old guns half a dozen years ago are still holding up.