• 1996 Honda 15 Hp Service Manual Pdf
• 1996 Honda 15 Hp Outboard

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Ok - need some help - its a 15 hp honda - 4 stroke - 2000's vintage (can't read the serial number). Last spring, after a year of not being in use, it started with 'old' gas and ran/idled fine.then about 1/2 way through the summer it won't run at idle for more than a few seconds. If I hold in the choke it will, but that's not right.I replaced the fuel pump (from external fuel tank), fuel filter, removed excess hose.nothing.getting ready to go back at it this spring and I'm hoping to get some ideas.needless to say the manual doesn't provide much in the way of troubleshooting. I'm sure the old gas with crud in it found its way into the motor/carb? If it were a 2 stroke I'd be more confident in taking it apart and doing all the things you do to clean the carb. But since its a 4 stroke I guess I'm uneasy doing that.ideas?

Ok - need some help - its a 15 hp honda - 4 stroke - 2000's vintage (can't read the serial number). Last spring, after a year of not being in use, it started with 'old' gas and ran/idled fine.then about 1/2 way through the summer it won't run at idle for more than a few seconds. If I hold in the choke it will, but that's not right.I replaced the fuel pump (from external fuel tank), fuel filter, removed excess hose.nothing.getting ready to go back at it this spring and I'm hoping to get some ideas.needless to say the manual doesn't provide much in the way of troubleshooting. I'm sure the old gas with crud in it found its way into the motor/carb? If it were a 2 stroke I'd be more confident in taking it apart and doing all the things you do to clean the carb. But since its a 4 stroke I guess I'm uneasy doing that.ideas?

Thx A carburetor is a carburetor - if you're comfortable w/the carbs from your old 2-stroke outboards, this one shouldn't be a problem. Your description sounds like fuel-starvation at idle. If it idles OK when you choke it, and doesn't load-up and bog down, that would indicate that your 'normal' idle condition is lean, and that enrichening the mixture w/the choke gets it closer to the proper mixture. Does the engine run OK off idle? Will it rev as high as it is supposed to? One 'cheater fix' that's inexpensive is to dump a can of Sea Foam in the gas tank, and see if that helps it 'clean itself'. I'd opt for getting a carb rebuild kit, disassemble, thoroughly clean, reassemble w/the new needle/seat and reinstall.

If the problem is a clogged jet, before you disassemble anything, try using the engine vacuum to suck the crud through. Rev it to the max and block the intake with a suitably-oversized rubber ball - sometimes even applying full choke might work. A bit of cleaner beforehand might improve your chances. A clogged jet will present itself in that way and fuel will be seen to drip into the throat when revving instead of cleanly being vaporized. On the other hand 90 percent of IC gas engine problems are ignition related - maybe more in a marine environment: have you checked each plug wire with a timing light to see it is firing? My Merc 3.5 4-stroke was refusing to idle when I pulled it out of storage last week, would only run with the choke most of the way out or at high revs with the choke in, so I figured it was a plugged jet.

So today I tried some of the Seafoam stuff. Lots of black gorp in the water, and I thought it was starting to improve halfway through the tank.

Then the engine revved up really high a couple of times, then died. Restarting resulted in the same over-revving/die thing a few times, now it won't restart at all. My Merc 3.5 4-stroke was refusing to idle when I pulled it out of storage last week, would only run with the choke most of the way out or at high revs with the choke in, so I figured it was a plugged jet. So today I tried some of the Seafoam stuff. Lots of black gorp in the water, and I thought it was starting to improve halfway through the tank. Then the engine revved up really high a couple of times, then died.

Restarting resulted in the same over-revving/die thing a few times, now it won't restart at all. Ish - did you follow the ratio recommendations on the can?

I've fouled plugs in the past using too high a concentration of SeaFoam/Gas. Could be you cleaned off a few year's worth of gunk, and simply fouled the spark plug. Could be you dislodged some small (like grain of sand size) piece of crud that's now blocking one of the tiny holes in the carb: Air orifice, needle seat, or the main jet. The high-revving could be indicative of an vacuum leak, too - how old is the engine, and have you ever had the carb off? Take a look at any vacuum lines (they get brittle after a couple years) that could be cracked and giving you the lean burn/high revving you're experiencing. My Merc 3.5 4-stroke was refusing to idle when I pulled it out of storage last week, would only run with the choke most of the way out or at high revs with the choke in, so I figured it was a plugged jet.

So today I tried some of the Seafoam stuff. Lots of black gorp in the water, and I thought it was starting to improve halfway through the tank. Then the engine revved up really high a couple of times, then died.

Restarting resulted in the same over-revving/die thing a few times, now it won't restart at all. Ish - did you follow the ratio recommendations on the can? I've fouled plugs in the past using too high a concentration of SeaFoam/Gas. Could be you cleaned off a few year's worth of gunk, and simply fouled the spark plug.

Could be you dislodged some small (like grain of sand size) piece of crud that's now blocking one of the tiny holes in the carb: Air orifice, needle seat, or the main jet. The high-revving could be indicative of an vacuum leak, too - how old is the engine, and have you ever had the carb off? Take a look at any vacuum lines (they get brittle after a couple years) that could be cracked and giving you the lean burn/high revving you're experiencing. The engine is less than two years old and has had very light use, it looks new and all the hoses are flexible. It was running fine when I ran it dry last year for storage. I did go with the ratio they suggest, maybe a little higher. It's hard to measure 1/3 of an ounce accurately to go in the tiny internal tank.

I'll see what's happening tonight after a 24-hour soak with Seafoam in the system. I'll put in a new plug while I'm at it. Ok (15hp Honda issue) - I put in the sea foam; both in the tank and syphoned it directly into the fuel line (probably 2 oz) ahead of the motor and ran it. Still runs great ABOVE idle but still doesn't idle. When idling (trying) the only way to keep it running is to pull the choke out, which I believe (from other posts) pulls in more fuel.

In turn it idles fine for 2-3 sec and starts to die out. If I pull the choke again it repeats that cycle. Seems like next step is to take the carb apart and focus on the idle jet. Probably some 'goo' in there fouling it.

Anyone know of any good 15hp 4 stroke carb pictures to help me find the idle jet? The operators manual doesn't show that kind of breakdown.

Thx again for input. Good point by Becalmed, but I'd still hold out some hope for not even needing to disassemble the engine even that far. And I'm reminded when this happened to one of my old cars I completely removed the idle screw and sprayed carb cleaner right into that hole - which, on that particular carb anyhow, is connected by passageway to the main jet. Also a carb which has worked itself loose from the intake manifold - or any other vacuum leak, as mentioned by someone previously - could be the cause of this same problem. One more idea.

Maybe a long shot and I'm just thinking out loud, but could the symptoms of a weak fuel pump be compensated for by adding choke? One good first ploy with outboard difficulties - especially when the boat is drifting towards some rocks and there is nothing else which can be accomplished in the short time available - is to raise the fuel tank above the engine. Ok - I can get the carb off pretty easily (couldn't do it last night becuase I didn't have a socket set.) so I'll take your advice and not totally disassemble it (thats good becuase I'm 'that guy' that ends up w/extra parts after its reinstalled).

I bought carb cleaner when i bought the sea foam (I'm also 'that guy' who has learned to make as few trips as possible to the store and eventually I use the extras!) so I'll spray it, blow it and watch the gunk fly. As for the gas tank above the motor - good idea and one I checked, as well as the small in-line fuel filter to make sure there was enough fuel getting to the carb.checked out ok. It's probably the carberator. TMI monday morning update - we got to the idle screw and it seems the SEA FOAM loosened it up over night so we were able to adjust it and, after learning which way is 'more' - it idled! The bad news is however, somewhere along the way the impeller (or something else) stopped drawing in water! So now we are back at the dock and researching how to get to the water pump and decide which kit to buy to repair it. The fun of boating!

I've got my puttputt in three pieces right now because of the waterpump. I'm ready to put it together right now having amassed all the materials and parts. Does focus the mind on sailing when you have no other recourse except for anchoring though. I mentioned it to someone yesterday an they said to check the thermostat as these salting-up is the primary cause for a worn impeller no longer adequately circulating water: they were right as I had already determined. When idling (trying) the only way to keep it running is to pull the choke out, which I believe (from other posts) pulls in more fuel. Actually, when pulling the choke out all you are (typically) doing is restricting the amount of air flowing into the carb/engine.and advancing the throttle some preset amount. So yes, you are pulling in more fuel.but its from the throttle advance.

You should have both an idle speed adjustment and an mixture adjustment. Idle speed sets the number of RPMs at idle. If to low, obviously the engine won't idle well (or at all).

The other is how 'lean' (think little gas lots of air) or 'rich' (lot of gas, less air) is allowed into the engine. Too rich fouls the plugs, wastes gas, etc. Too lean can lead to engine stalling out under load.

Yours sounds mostly like a too low idle speed, or too lean a mixture. Either one likely caused by junk from the old gas. Sorry doge about not jumping in on this topic sooner, but work. We had the same symptoms a couple of years ago on our Honda 15 (1996 model) The problem turned out to be where the exhaust coupling bolts on to the oil case corroded, developed a leak and the motor was trying to eat it's own exhaust. By trial-and-error I found an easy way to check. Take off the engine bonnet and see if the Honda will idle. If it does, you can be sure it's an air issue and can probably be traced to that leak.

As a matter of fact, as I discovered later, Honda 15's are prone to this kind of thing. Sorry doge about not jumping in on this topic sooner, but work. We had the same symptoms a couple of years ago on our Honda 15 (1996 model) The problem turned out to be where the exhaust coupling bolts on to the oil case corroded, developed a leak and the motor was trying to eat it's own exhaust. By trial-and-error I found an easy way to check.

Take off the engine bonnet and see if the Honda will idle. If it does, you can be sure it's an air issue and can probably be traced to that leak.

As a matter of fact, as I discovered later, Honda 15's are prone to this kind of thing. Ok - I'll check that as well.this winter we might be doing a full tear down to find these kinds of things. The engine seems strong so I'd (obviously) like to preserve it as long as possible. For some reason, spending a few dollars and hours slowly feels better than spending a few thousand dollars all at once. Any more Honda 'known issues' to watch out for? Sorry doge about not jumping in on this topic sooner, but work. We had the same symptoms a couple of years ago on our Honda 15 (1996 model) The problem turned out to be where the exhaust coupling bolts on to the oil case corroded, developed a leak and the motor was trying to eat it's own exhaust.

By trial-and-error I found an easy way to check. Take off the engine bonnet and see if the Honda will idle. If it does, you can be sure it's an air issue and can probably be traced to that leak. As a matter of fact, as I discovered later, Honda 15's are prone to this kind of thing. Ok- ironically, the timing of this is so perfect.

I fixed the impeller - and now - YES! I have developed this issue! How do I go about fixing it!!! Sorry doge about not jumping in on this topic sooner, but work. We had the same symptoms a couple of years ago on our Honda 15 (1996 model) The problem turned out to be where the exhaust coupling bolts on to the oil case corroded, developed a leak and the motor was trying to eat it's own exhaust.

By trial-and-error I found an easy way to check. Take off the engine bonnet and see if the Honda will idle. If it does, you can be sure it's an air issue and can probably be traced to that leak. As a matter of fact, as I discovered later, Honda 15's are prone to this kind of thing. Ok- ironically, the timing of this is so perfect. I fixed the impeller - and now - YES!

I have developed this issue! How do I go about fixing it!!!

Boy, it's a SAD day indeed when I have the voice of reason. (Ask anyone.) Here's the deal. Honda in their infinite wisdom seems to have built the rest of the powerhead around that damn coupling.

1996 Honda 15 Hp Service Manual Pdf

1996 Honda 15 Hp Outboard

EVERYTHING has to come off! Not knowing what year your motor is, I've taken the liberty of providing an exploded view of my motor. Take note of part numbers 8, 9 and 10. Your best bet would be to get a service manual for this puppy. Here's the kicker.

Where the exhaust coupling bolted on to the motor, it had corroded the oil case as well. (VERY spendy indeed. $500) I thought a bit.

Had a couple of beers. And decided upon using a bar of epoxy steel to rebuild the oil case so the gasket would fit properly, THEN used a die grinder to smooth the surface. This stuff gets harder than Japanese arithmetic. Two years and 2700 miles, no problem. OR Take it to a GOOD small engine repair guy. Ok - need some help - its a 15 hp honda - 4 stroke - 2000's vintage (can't read the serial number).

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Last spring, after a year of not being in use, it started with 'old' gas and ran/idled fine.then about 1/2 way through the summer it won't run at idle for more than a few seconds. If I hold in the choke it will, but that's not right.I replaced the fuel pump (from external fuel tank), fuel filter, removed excess hose.nothing.getting ready to go back at it this spring and I'm hoping to get some ideas.needless to say the manual doesn't provide much in the way of troubleshooting. I'm sure the old gas with crud in it found its way into the motor/carb? If it were a 2 stroke I'd be more confident in taking it apart and doing all the things you do to clean the carb. But since its a 4 stroke I guess I'm uneasy doing that.ideas? Thx Had this problem last week with mine, kept it Revving for a while and it fixed itself.

Try it, it worked for me.

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