1982 Yamaha Virago 750 Repair Manual
Yamaha FZ750 FZ 750 Workshop Service Repair Manual 1985 1986 HERE. Yamaha MJ50 Towny MJ 50 Workshop Service Repair Manual 1979 - 1982 HERE. Yamaha XV250 Virago XV 250 Illustrated Parts List Diagram Manual HERE.
STARTER TROUBLESHOOTING 1.1 Table 1-1. Starter Does Not Run or Runs At Very Low Speeds SOURCE OF PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE SOLUTION Battery Voltage drop due to discharged battery. Charge battery. Short-circuited or open between electrodes.
Yamaha V-Star 1100 Series Motorcycle (1999-2009) Service Repair Manual Clymer Manuals. Yamaha XV535, XV700, XV750, XV920, XV1000 and XV1100 manual. Clymer Manuals Yamaha 650cc Twins 1970-1982 M403. CLYMER 1981-1997 Yamaha XV750 Virago REPAIR MANUAL M395-10. The vendor part number is M395-10. Read title careful to know what you are getting.
Replace battery. Poor contact condition of battery terminal(s). Clean and retighten.
Wiring Poor or no connection at either battery positive or negative cable, at either end. Repair or replace cable(s). Cracked or corroded battery cable ends. Clean, tighten or replace cable(s) as needed. Open wire(s) or poor connection at handlebar switch or starter relay, especially relay ground wire (grounds through TSM/TSSM).
Tighten connections or repair or replace wire(s). Handlebar start switch Poor switch contacts or open switch. Replace switch. Starter relay Open coil winding. Replace relay. Poor or no continuity at relay points.
Replace relay. TSM/TSSM has disabled starter relay. Check for open on wire to TSM/TSSM.
Correct lack of ground. Solenoid Poor contact condition caused by burnt contact. Polish contact surface or replace solenoid assembly. Pull-in winding open or short-circuited. Repair or replace solenoid assembly. Hold-in winding open or short-circuited.
Repair or replace solenoid assembly. Starting motor Brushes worn below specification. Check brush spring tension. Replace field frame and holder. Commutator burnt. Re-face or replace. Commutator high mica.
Correct by undercutting. Field winding grounded. Armature winding grounded or short-circuited. Reduction gears damaged. Insufficient brush spring tension. Disconnected lead wire between solenoid and field windings.
Repair or replace lead wire. Ball bearing sticks. Replace bearing. Pinion Does Not Engage With Ring Gear While Starter is Cranked or Engine Cannot Be Cranked SOURCE OF PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE SOLUTION Battery Voltage drop due to discharged battery.
Charge battery. Short-circuited or open between electrodes. Replace battery. Poor contact condition of battery terminal(s).
Clean and retighten. Overrunning clutch.
Overrunning clutch malfunction (rollers or compression spring). Replace overrunning clutch. Pinion teeth worn out. Replace pinion.
Pinion does not run in overrunning direction. Replace overrunning clutch. Poor sliding condition of spline teeth.
Remove foreign materials, dirt or replace overrunning clutch or pinion shaft. Reduction gears damaged. Replace overrunning clutch and idler gear. Jackshaft assembly Improper jackshaft parts assembly Disassemble and assemble parts properly. Gear teeth on clutch shell Excessively worn teeth. Replace clutch shell.
Starter Does Not Stop Running SOURCE OF PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE SOLUTION Starting switch or starter relay. Unopened contacts. Replace starting switch or starter relay. Poor return caused by sticky switch or relay contacts. Replace starting switch or starter relay.
Gear teeth on clutch shell Excessively worn teeth. Replace clutch shell.
Return spring worn. Replace spring. Coil layer shorted. Replace solenoid. Contact plate melted and stuck.
Replace solenoid. STARTING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS 1.2 DIAGNOSTICS Diagnostic Notes The reference numbers below correlate with the circled numbers on the starter system flow charts. Remove starter motor.
Connect jumper wires as described under FREE RUNNING CURRENT DRAW TEST under 1.6 TESTING STARTER ON BENCH. See VOLTAGE DROPS under 1.4 DIAGNOSTICS/ TROUBLESHOOTING. See STARTER CURRENT DRAW TEST under 1.5 TESTING STARTER ON MOTORCYCLE. Connect BREAKOUT BOX (Part No.42682) (black) and 6-pin Harness Adapters (Part No.
42962) between wiring harness connector 22A and right hand control harness connector 22B. See FREE RUNNING CURRENT DRAW TEST under 1.6 TESTING STARTER ON BENCH. Starter Testing 5: Starter Spins But Does Not Engage Starter Testing 6: Starter Stalls or Spins Too Slowly Remove starter. Disassemble drive housing assembly. Inspect for damage to armature gear or idler gear. Is damage present?
Remove and disassemble starter jackshaft assembly. Is jackshaft properly assembled? Assemble jackshaft properly. Replace damaged idler gear and armature.
1982 Yamaha Virago 750
Clutch failure. Replace starter clutch.
Perform voltage drop tests between battery positive to starter battery terminal. Crank engine. Is voltage drop greater than 1.0 volt?
Perform voltage drop tests from battery positive to starter motor terminal. Crank engine. Is voltage drop greater than 1.0 volt?
Repair connection between battery and starter. Repair or replace solenoid (contacts). Perform voltage drop tests between battery negative and starter studs or bolts. Is voltage drop greater than 1.0 volt? Clean ground connections. Perform starter motor current draw test (on vehicle). Perform starter motor free running current draw bench test.
Are test results within range? Remove spark plugs while in 5th gear. Rotate rear wheel. Check for engine, primary and/or crankshaft bind.
Replace or repair starter motor. DIAGNOSTICS/TROUBLESHOOTING 1.4 GENERAL The troubleshooting tables beginning on page 1-1 contain detailed procedures to solve and correct problems. Follow the 1.2 STARTING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS diagram to diagnose starting system problems. The VOLTAGE DROPS procedure below will help you to locate poor connections or components with excessive voltage drops. VOLTAGE DROPS Check the integrity of all wiring, switches, circuit breakers and connectors between the source and destination. The voltage drop test measures the difference in potential or the actual voltage dropped between the source and destination. See ITEM A in Figure 1-2.
Attach your red meter lead to the most positive part of the circuit, which in this case would be the positive post of the battery (5). See ITEM B in Figure 1-2. Attach the black meter lead to the final destination or component in the circuit (solenoid terminal from relay). Activate the starter and observe the meter reading.
The meter will read the voltage dropped or the difference in potential between the source and destination. An ideal circuit’s voltage drop would be 0 volts or no voltage dropped, meaning no difference in potential. See ITEM C in Figure 1-2. An open circuit should read 12 volts, displaying all the voltage dropped, and the entire difference in potential displayed on the meter. NOTE Open circuits on the ground side will read zero.
Typically, a good circuit will drop less than 1.0 volt. If the voltage drop is greater, back track through the connections until the source of the potential difference is found. The benefits of doing it this way are speed and accuracy. Readings aren’t as sensitive to real battery voltage. Readings show the actual voltage dropped, not just the presence of voltage. This tests the system as it is actually being used. It is more accurate and will display hard to find poor connections.
This approach can be used on lighting circuits, ignition circuits, etc. Start from most positive and go to most negative (the destination or component). See ITEM D in Figure 1-2. The negative or ground circuit can be checked as well. Place the negative lead on the most negative part of the circuit (or the negative battery post). Remember, there is nothing more negative than the negative post of the battery. Place the positive lead to the ground you wish to check.
Activate the circuit. This will allow you to read the potential difference or voltage dropped on the negative or ground circuit. This technique is very effective for identifying poor grounds due to powdered paint. Even the slightest connection may cause an ohmmeter to give a good reading. However, when sufficient current is passed through, the resistance caused by the powdered paint will cause a voltage drop or potential difference in the ground circuit. STARTER RELAY TEST 1. Remove left side cover.
See Figure 1-4. Locate starter relay (1) in upper corner of oil tank on motorcycle’s left side. To test relay, proceed to Step 4. If installing a new starter relay, unplug old relay from relay/fuse block and replace. CAUTION Only connect relay terminal 2 to negative battery terminal. Improper connections will damage the diode connected across the relay windings. See Figure 1-5.
The starter relay can be tested using the motorcycle’s 12 volt battery and a multimeter. Unplug relay from relay/fuse block. To energize relay, connect the battery leads to terminals 1 and 2 as shown, battery positive (+) to terminal 1, battery negative (–) to terminal 2. Check for continuity between terminals 3 and 5. A good relay shows continuity (continuity tester lamp “on” or a zero ohm reading on the ohmmeter).
A malfunctioning relay will not show continuity and must be replaced. If starter relay is functioning properly, plug it into relay/ fuse block and proceed to STARTER CURRENT DRAW TEST.
STARTER CURRENT DRAW TEST NOTES ● Engine temperature should be stable and at room temperature. ● Battery should be fully charged. See Figure 1-6. Check starter current draw with an induction ammeter before disconnecting battery. Proceed as follows: 1. Verify that transmission is in neutral. Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plug terminals.
Clamp induction ammeter over positive battery cable next to starter. With ignition key switch ON, turn engine over by pressing starter switch while reading the ammeter. Disregard initial high current reading which is normal when engine is first turned over. Typical starter current draw will range from 160 to 200 amperes. If starter current draw exceeds 250 amperes, the problem may be in the starter or starter drive. Remove starter for further tests.
1982 Yamaha Virago 750 Service Manual Download
See the Sportster Service Manual. NOTE See Figure 1-6.
A DC current probe may be used if an induction ammeter is not available. TESTING STARTER ON BENCH 1.6 FREE RUNNING CURRENT DRAW TEST 1. Place starter in vise, using a clean shop towel to prevent scratches or other damage. See Figure 1-8.
Attach one heavy jumper cable (6 gauge minimum). Connect one end to the starter mounting flange (1). Connect the other end to the negative (–) terminal of a fully charged battery (2). Connect a second heavy jumper cable (6 gauge minimum). Connect one end to the positive (+) terminal of the battery (2). Connect the other end to the battery terminal (4) on the starter solenoid.
Place an inductive ammeter (3) over cable. Connect a smaller jumper cable (14 gauge minimum). Connect one end to the positive (+) terminal of the battery (2). Connect the other end to the solenoid relay terminal (5).
Check ammeter reading. Ammeter should show 90 amps maximum. If reading is higher, disassemble starter for inspection. See the Sportster Service Manual. If starter current draw on vehicle was over 200 amps and this test was within specification, there may be a problem with engine, primary drive or jackshaft. STARTER SOLENOID 1WARNING Wear eye protection during this series of tests. These tests may produce flying sparks which could result in death or serious injury.
NOTE Do not disassemble solenoid. Before testing, disconnect field wire from motor terminal as shown in Figure 1-9. CAUTION Each test should be performed for only 3-5 seconds to prevent damage to solenoid. NOTE The solenoid Pull-in, Hold-in, and Return tests must be performed together in one continuous operation. Conduct all three tests one after the other in the sequence given without interruption.